Author: Knowing Guangjun

WeChat public account: knowledge

I have reprinted two articles about Michelin by Mr. Mo Di Xiao before. The reading volume is quite high. Although it seems that the discussion does not discuss it, I do n’t know if you have left a little thinking in the hearts of all readers.

This article was an exclusive interview with Mr. Mo before the Michelin Guide came out. I saw it on the homepage yesterday on the homepage and asked if I could reprint it. The other party agreed very quickly

In the article about authentic, innovation, and taste, I personally feel good.

There are always Chinese meals in various gourmet documentaries and Western food videos. Sometimes they really think that these people are on the roadside stalls downstairs, but the top Chinese restaurants.Don’t know if you don’t know, don’t want to know.

On June 28, the first edition of the “Guangzhou Michelin Guide” will be officially announced.This means -there is another pile of marketing numbers to lined up the team to stuff all kinds of “must -see strategies” and “gourmet guidelines” in your hands!

For most people, the significance of a “punch card” store may be: taking photos and telling everyone -my life is really good!My taste is really high!I’m really different from you mortals …

No one will not like food, but there are very few people who really understand food.

In the eyes of “gourmet experts”, what are the “particular” dishes?What are the doors of food appreciation?What are the elements of a quality food review?

Before meeting Modhon (Zhihu ID: Mo Dao, public account ID: Mo Dixiao’s mountain house), we didn’t even seriously think about the above problems.As a “gourmet”, he has the most “picky” tongue. He has eaten a lot of top dishes from the north and south of the river, knowing the unique food culture in various places …

In this issue, let’s get closer to Zhihu “Gourmet V” togetherModhonLook at the “old lady” who always loves to “poisoning late at night”. What kind of unique insights on the trivial matter of “eating”.

Knowledge: What are the standards for gourmet judging food?

Modhon:In my opinion, discussing whether this thing is delicious, there are actually three levels.

The first level is the appetite of or not ourselvesThis level is very personal, so I have never discussed these issues at these levels.But most people I see are standing on this level to discuss food.

The remaining two levels can be discussed,One is whether its processing process is right,If this dish is widely circulating, do you follow the corresponding rules, because you have to understand what steps it can, which can be omit or reform, and what is not like this.Essence

Whether the third layer is innovative.It is not necessarily the most perfect, but the idea of vegetables is very charming.In fact, eating, especially high -end restaurants, eat,It is also a process of art appreciation.

Consciousness: What are the differences between “Food Appreciation” and “Art Appreciation”?

Modhon:Eating is the same as we go to the art museum and museum, and a statue is the same reason. We understand their things through this painting, so -called Philosophy Behind them (the philosophy behind it, deeper meaning).

For example, I wrote a comment on Mona Lisa. After reading, after reading, I understood my views, and the reader could also see Mona Lisa, which could reflect the relevant views.

But I write a food review. For many people, it can only evoke appetite, but it is discussed in it. There are not many people who can understand it, and even if they can understand, they can’t feel it.

Because the taste, sense of smell, smell, and hearing are different, it is impossible to copy.Unless we sit face to face, we can share a dish.

So the appreciation of food is a relatively niche and a relatively threshold.It sounds more mysterious.

Knowledge: Can you give us an example and describe the dishes that you have eaten and can rise to the “art appreciation” level?

Modhon:There is a French cuisine in Guangzhou called the “Three People”. Chef A Ken created a “Indian tent” created by Indians after visiting the Indians.

First of all, this dish is three -dimensional, three -dimensional, and many dishes are flat, two -dimensional.

It is very interesting when eating. First, you have to open the “tent”, which is crispy toast cheese.

Then you grab the stick, stick to the cream sauce, and take a bite. The first to touch is the traditional French white juice.After the teeth bite the skin on the surface of the fish mud wrapped in the rod, the juice of the sweet fish meat inside will appear. When the core is the core, it is the whole lemongrass, but the core is tender.The juice will nourish.Suddenly rescued you from these heavy tastes.

Knowledge: Have you ever experienced such experience in Chinese food?

Modhon:some.In the Mandarin East in Hong Kong, there is a dish called raw crab meat fried Hsinchu rice noodles. Because it is used to use Taiwan’s Hsinchu rice noodles, it is difficult to prepare, so it is no longer on the menu.

But every time I go to position, I will help me reserve one, basically I order every time.

When I went to eat for the first time, I was very impressed.

Because rice noodles are stupid, what does it taste like it, like a piece of white paper, on the other hand, it can’t hang it, so it is difficult to deal with rice noodles, especially the fried rice noodles.

Then the dish is a very traditional Shunde method. The main ingredients are raw crab meat, and there will be osmanthus fried eggs (fried eggs with egg yolks).

The whole channel of fried rice noodles will make people feel the painting situation of painting,There is a way of “Divine Comedy” Virgil’s mystery.

When you chew, there are many kinds of materials.When I encounter this occasionally in my mouth, when I encounter that, like when playing with mountains, I occasionally see such or so attractions, and there will always be a joy of seeing at first glance.And the rice noodles that lead you to the mountains are like a clumsy old farmer.

Consciousness: Is there a clever example to achieve “innovation”?

Modhon:Yes, the traditional honey juice is the part of the good Jinhua ham. It is very rotten to stew, cut the knife, and then buckle it with sweet honey juice.

But now many places are not doing this dish, because they are chaotic. In order to please tourists, they remove the lotus seeds in the lotus seeds. In this way, there is less whole dishes.Essence

Therefore, the so -called innovation, to know why it knows why, otherwise it is wrong to blindly innovate.

Knowledge: In your opinion, why is Guangzhou’s “food culture” particularly developed?

Modhon:The opening of Guangzhou’s port for more than two thousand years is the only city in the traditional Chinese geography that has not been absolutely connected, soIs a dual background civilizationEssenceOn the one hand, there are both the culture of Confucianism, the culture of the clan, and the culture of the ocean, and the culture of business.

In the first reason, you need to find a place to find a place to chat and entertain.For example, the earliest patriotic tea buildings are not because they are coming to eat morning tea, but to exchange information information with each other.

Many high -end catering in many places rely on the government, such as Beijing and Yangzhou.Of course, Guangzhou also has big dishes, but the diet is often developed for business.So even if it is changed, Guangzhou can retain a strong food culture.

The second is that Guangzhou people are more pragmaticI think the one of the people, and the life one has passed.

For more than 2000 in Guangzhou, the wind and waves have experienced, and those who have no money have experienced it. The wind should look at it.Therefore, you will see more about you, use, and merit.

Consciousness: What are the differences in food culture compared with Beijing and Shanghai?

Mo Di Xiao: Beijing is a city that is very scatteredEssence

Because there are a large number of embassies in Beijing, the office in Beijing has a stomach on the table, and roast ducks, but those like fried liver are also very popular.In this situation,Beijing people do not have a fixed taste, and the taste is easy to shape.So things like crayfish can be in Beijing for so many years.

There are still some foundations in Shanghai in Shanghai. The problem is that only by allowing the Shanghai people to be pleasing and sincere, it will pursue you.

Take Cantonese cuisine as an example. It is Hong Kong -style and even Singapore -style Cantonese cuisine. However, it may feel a bit of a price drop for Cantonese Cantonese cuisine.So our traditional Cantonese Cantonese cuisine is a halberd in Shanghai.

Its cognition of something is relatively biased and narrow, but it can recognize a lot of things, so the degree of internationalization of Shanghai far exceeds Guangzhou.

One of the big problems in Guangzhou is thatCantonese cuisine can be well preserved and passed down, in fact a double -edged sword.

There are a large number of discerning and stubborn diners in the local area, so the local cuisine can be inherited well, which also makes it difficult to come in from foreign dishes.Often, the taste is more “localized”. If there are some unwilling to improve, it will be difficult to survive.

Knowledge: “Guangzhou Michelin Restaurant” will be announced on June 28. What do you think will have a impact on Guangzhou?

Modhon:Shanghai, Hong Kong, Macau, Bangkok, Singapore, Taipei, Seoul, Tokyo, Osaka and other cities on the list of “Michelin” are far higher than that of Guangzhou.Therefore, Michelin will promote Guangzhou’s international vision and taste.

In terms of material conditions, Guangzhou is enough to produce some good restaurants, but the reason why there is no imagination of good restaurants is still caused by market orientation.

I hope this “Michelin” can promote the taste of Guangzhou consumers more international.

Knowledge: What are the shops in Michelin Samsung in your heart?

Mo Dixiao: What I have in my heart is “Yutang Spring Warm”It was given the price without it. Although it may be a little worse than the “Michelin Samsung” standard, there is no problem with sitting in the same look.

At least it is better than Shanghai’s Tang Pavilion.

It is strange to choose a Cantonese cuisine as “Michelin Samsung” in Shanghai, but chose a Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou, and it is the “Yutang Spring Warm” of the White Swan Hotel. I think the problem is not big. 

Consciousness: As a Guangzhou native, will you worry that “eating in Guangzhou” will one day go to “unrealistic name”?

Mo Dixiao: We will worry that “eating in Guangzhou” will not be passed down and not sounds.

Mainly two levels of concerns.

One is that the traditional Cantonese cuisine is getting more and less, the second is the internationalization of taste, and the taste of the entire city will be destroyed.This problem is actually quite serious.

Consciousness: What does “taste destroy” specifically?

Modhon:Such as Britain,We are now talking about Fish and Chips, dark dishes, and it is difficult to eat.

But Britain has the glory of Victoria. Although it is not a European food center like France and Italy, it is still very good.Why is it this dead now?

On the one hand, due to the advancement of technology and transportation brought about by the industrial revolution, a large number of working class needs to quickly supplement nutrition and calories, so this “dark cuisine” is popular.

Another is that after two battles in the UK, the materials are scarce. By the 1950s, the Labor Party Karaham had a food relief plan, which lowered people’s food bottom line.

By the end of the 1970s, the supplies were rich after Sachel came to power, but many taste of food have been changed.

Destroying the taste and destroying the bottom line of food, in fact, only the time of one generation.

Knowing Guang: Nowadays, some problems will be encountered in the development of Cantonese cuisine. Many Cantonese dishes are slowly disappearing. What do you think?

Modhon:There are many reasons for disappearance.

Some of them are too troublesome. For the consideration of the cost of restaurants and management, I can understand it, or as a hidden menu, I understand.

And it is here,Master is inherited.

The second is because it does not conform to the laws of the current market economy. It is regrettable, because the stick cannot be hit by the economic law.

We can only rely on us to spend more and support it.

Knowledge: Is there any disappearance of dishes, will it make you feel regrettable?

Modhon:Leek fried is a dish I like to eat very much.

This thing is very small. It is troublesome to plan. If it is not fried enough, it will become fishy, and it will be tender and fresh if it is fried.

This thing is that this thing is continuously fishy, or it is not delicious when it is stubborn (fry too much).

Therefore, it is really difficult to do leeks to stir -fry.

Two or three years ago, it was called “Wenxin Old Shop”. It was a traditional dish for Shunde. “Leeks fried” was delicious, but after changing the master two or three years ago, it fell.

Now that I am still satisfied, I ’m fried in the leek of the“ Xiangqun Hotel ”headquarters.

Guangzhou has Chaozhou -style fried stir -fry,Although I like to eat very much, I still miss the local flavor of Guangzhou I ate when I was a kid.

Consciousness: So you are more worried about the dumping of the good restaurant or the reduction of the dishes, but the change of the public taste?

Mo Dixiao: What makes me very worried is that many things have been changed, and you don’t know what the right is.

I think,You don’t like to eat such things, just because you haven’t eaten it correctly,If you have eaten it correctly, you will only feel that this thing is delicious, but you just don’t have an appetite.

Knowledge: What is “correct” food?

Mo Di Xiao: Every step does not necessarily follow the tradition, but it is not messy, it is served around the last performance of the food.If the food that can be presented in such ingredients and processes is the right food.

When you eat the right food, you will know that the sea was difficult to water.

(*The picture in the text comes from the Internet, and the copyright belongs to the author)

This issue of interview: Stin, Ai Sauce